Thirteen Thoughts: Perfumer Interview Series – Angelo Orazio Pregoni of O’Driù

thirteen-thoughts-v2_800_shadowThirteen thoughts from perfumers around the globe. Each perfumer profiled at Perfume Polytechnic has been presented with the same set of thirteen questions that probe into scent memories, imagination, education, history, the creative process and philosophy. How each perfumer answers these questions, and what form the answers take, is up to them. Tune in each week for a new instalment to learn more about the olfactory arts and how perfumers think about smell.

Today’s interview is the third of five weekly instalments of Thirteen Thoughts, a Perfumer Interview Series. Today’s interview is with Italian perfumer Angelo Orazio Pregoni of O’Driù. Future instalments will feature PK Perfumes’ Paul Kiler and 4160Tuesdays’ Sarah McCartney.

O’Driù – A Brief Introduction

Amongst perfume enthusiasts, independent perfume house O’Driù is often considered controversial. For example, in 2013,  O’Driù released the divisive Peety, a fragrance that is supposed to be completed or personalised by adding 1ml of the owner’s urine. O’Driù’s fragrances are often filled with conceptual or imaginary fragrance notes or ingredients, including “bitter battle”, “the nightmare that reveals the pleasure” and “the hug of a woman”. Perfumer Angelo Orazio Pregoni’s work at O’Driù displays a friendly playfulness combined with the intention to shock. In combination with references to high art and culture, this combines to create a very interesting aesthetic full of tension and friction. I think O’Driù is creating some of the most interesting work out there in contemporary perfumery, conceptually and artistically.

At the bottom of this page, I reflect on my own thoughts about Angelo’s answers and O’Driù. As I don’t want to let my ideas influence your experience of this very interesting interview, I have left my thoughts until the end.

Without any further ado, let me introduce you to…

Angelo Orazio Pregoni of O’Driù

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Angelo Orazio Pregoni of O’Driù

  1. Tell us about a significant olfactory memory from your childhood.

The story would take too long to explain however as soon as my mother conceived me she was forced to escape to save my life. We hid in a trunk on the deck of a pirate ship that sailed away while my mother cradled me inside. Near the island of Serifo the trunk was thrown overboard and was recovered by a fisher named Ditti, the brother of the island tyrant, Polidette. Ditti brought the trunk to shore thinking it contained treasure and opened it. The smell of fish was so strong that it overwhelmed mother, who fainted while I cried. That is therefore the first smell I recall, fish.

  1. What is your “origin story”? When, why and how did you decide to become a perfumer?

Being the product of incest between my mother Mirra and her father, my adolescence wasn’t all that happy! You can imagine the social bias I was subjected to. So for a while I took care of the preparation of salves to be used during sacred ceremonies, the only activity I was allowed to undertake. As my birth was considered “inhuman” so my “touch” was thought alike to that of the Gods.

  1. Do you have any formal training in perfumery, or are you self-taught? Have there been any mentors or other personal or cultural influences on your work as a perfumer?

I think that schools are suitable only for French people, with French tastes and French formulas. No external influence will ever affect a person’s DNA, however a person is the result of accumulated experience. In this case I recall happy memories about a time in my life when I was living with a prostitute, a woman who welcomed me into her house just because she was in love with me! Rosa, that was her name, used to grease her hats with rancid butter and white flower essences and my nose was greatly influenced by this.

  1. Who are your favourite perfumers or perfume houses, and what do you like about their work?

I don’t like fantasy characters!

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Angelo Orazio Pregoni of O’Driù

  1. Describe your brand to us: tell us about the kind(s) of perfume that you make, as well as your brand’s philosophy or ethos.

There is no philosophy at all behind my brand! I am my brand and my perfume.

  1. How do you come up with the idea for a new perfume? For example, do ideas come to you spontaneously, do you work conceptually, or do you try to fill gaps in your range?

As originality is not my strong point I try to participate in as many fairs as I can to steal some hints from other perfume houses. I often go to perfume shops and if I find something good, that is the so-called best sellers, I just copy them.

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“O Shame! Where is thy blush? Panty (about Peety)” signed art work by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (100/100).

  1. What element of your perfume making process do you think readers of this blog would be interested or surprised to learn about?

Everybody will be surprised to know (no doubt) that none of my perfumes contain urine! For the rest I use casks from King Arthur’s time to perfect the perfume (though I have no idea of their purpose). In my living room I do the distillation of essences from my neighbour’s trees and flowers. Each perfume is magically tied to the memory of a dead person and is inspired by the thought of a celebrated writer! I often work at night, drinking rum and experiencing feelings that not even Baudelaire ever felt.

  1. What are the current challenges you face as a perfumer, both creatively and in regard to manufacturing, distributing and marketing your perfume?

My current challenge is destroying the world of perfumery and rebuilding it in only three days!

  1. How has your work as a perfumer affected your perception of everyday smells?

I’d say the contrary!

  1. Many ingredients that are edible are also used in fragrance (chocolate, vanilla, coffee and rose, to name a few). If you could reverse this process and turn any perfume ingredient into an edible ingredient, what would that be? Which fragrance ingredient do you think would taste nice as a flavour?

As a matter of fact we eat stupid things and we use stupid perfumes! Now this scent “Stupidity” is used as much in food as in perfumery. As far as I’m concerned we could cook a very good dish using the most famous raw material widespread in perfumery: the Pathetic! We could cook a beautiful heart-shaped cake, with strawberries and cream, add grandmother’s secret touch and a sprinkle of Pathetic. Wow!

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Pathétique perfume by O’Driù

  1. If you had a time machine, which historical period in perfumery would you like to go back to and work in as a perfumer?

Immediately after my death.

  1. If you could invent a new olfactory gadget, tool or technology, what would it be and how would it benefit perfumers and/or society?

A vanilla-flavoured anal vibrator! I’m sure that using it most critics could discover how precious vanilla becomes when blended with fecal notes.

  1. What is the purpose of perfume?

Making money.


Reflections on Angelo’s answers and O’Driù

I must admit that the morning I received Angelo’s answers to my questions, I was in a grumpy, pathetic mood. After reading these answers, I found myself smiling, and in a much better mood for the rest of the day. Angelo’s answers seem to embrace the same kind of spirit expressed by the Dadaists, an art movement I have always been particularly fond of. Dada, an art movement that sprang up in Europe during World War I, was an “anti-art” movement:

Many Dadaists believed that the ‘reason’ and ‘logic’ of bourgeois capitalist society had led people into war. They expressed their rejection of that ideology in artistic expression that appeared to reject logic and embrace chaos and irrationality…

According to Hans Richter [one of Dada’s key artists] Dada was not art: it was “anti-art.” Dada represented the opposite of everything [that] art stood for. Where art was concerned with traditional aesthetics, Dada ignored aesthetics. If art was to appeal to sensibilities, Dada was intended to offend.

(Text quoted from Wikipedia)

Is Angelo Orazio Pregoni channelling Dada in his work? Is his perfume “anti-perfume”? I don’t know; but the playfulness of all that Angelo does and his rejection of the conventions of perfumery remind me very much of the Dada spirit. These ramblings are only my interpretation of Angelo’s creative answers to my standard set of thirteen questions. All I really know for sure is that Angelo’s answers put a broad smile on my face the day I read them and reminded me not to take life, or myself, too seriously. Life became lighter for me.


I hope you’ve enjoyed the third instalment of Perfume Polytechnic’s Perfumer Interview Series with Angelo Orazio Pregoni of O’Driù. Hearty thanks to Angelo for his fun and lively answers! If you’d like to find out more about O’Driù and Angelo’s perfumes, visit O’Driù’s website. If you’re interested, you can also read a previous blog post of mine in which Olly Technic and I blind-tested and reviewed a sample set of O’Driù perfumes. O’Driù’s fragrances are listed on Fragrantica.

If you’d like to catch up on last week’s instalment of Thirteen Thoughts with perfumer Mark Evans of Evocative Perfumes, click here. Emma Leah of Fleurage was interviewed in week 1 of Thirteen Thoughts. To read Emma’s interview, click here.

NEXT WEEK’S Thirteen Thoughts: Perfumer Interview Series will feature Paul Kiler of PK Perfumes. Make sure you visit Perfume Polytechnic again this time next week to find out how Paul answers the same thirteen questions!

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17 thoughts on “Thirteen Thoughts: Perfumer Interview Series – Angelo Orazio Pregoni of O’Driù

  1. Although I guess some of these responses could be taken as “cooky artist doing his thing”-esque, to me they seem kinda rude and disrespectful of the survey. I’m not at all talking about the vanilla anal vibrator which isn’t offensive in the least to me, but rather the idea of other respected perfumers as fantasy characters and his being unoriginal thus needing to attend fairs to steal ideas from others. I get it, I guess…

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    • Thanks for your comment! I think if you take Angelo’s answers in the spirit of Dada, or as an example of the performance art that Angelo engages in, it’s easier to appreciate. I think Angelo questions the conventions of perfumery by providing such provocative answers. So many famous people (perfumers or otherwise) do adopt fantasy personae, or at the very least, edit or augment aspects of their genuine personalities when marketing themselves and their brands. I think Angelo has created several fantasy characters of his own in the creation of O’Driu, but he may well disagree with me on that. I didn’t find his answers disrespectful, probably because I’m used to being around artists and nothing much shocks me :D. I give all participants creative license to answer as they choose, and I therefore I felt I needed to respect Angelo’s wishes to respond in this playful and unusual manner. At the very least, his answers make life a little more interesting, and they also help provoke thought and discussion about perfume, art and life. Thanks again for taking the time to comment!

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      • Hi again 🙂 thank you, too for responding. I have to be honest, I actually liked his responses conceptually. And I love his fragrance concepts. Absolutely. I’m glad you interpreted his answers in a positive way because it makes me see them in a different light. If I’d have sent those questions to Jean Claude Ellena, for example, and he’d responded that way, I might’ve thought “wow, apparently he’s too good to take my survey seriously.” But Pregoni is an artist in his own right and expresses himself differently. Yes, part of me would’ve wanted him to have one time said, all joking aside, my creations are very important to me and I’m so humbled that people appreciate them,” but that aside I thought it was a super entertaining read and unique for sure. Your interviews are much appreciated. Keep up the great work!

        Liked by 1 person

      • Glad to hear you enjoyed the answers at a conceptual level! I suppose what readers might not know is that I know Angelo to be nothing but friendly and warm, so I knew that his answers weren’t disrespectful in any way. I know Angelo was also pleased to have the artistic freedom to be able to reply how ever he liked in this interview, and I’m happy to have given him that opportunity. His responses certainly make the world a more interesting place! 😉 As for Jean Claude Ellena, if I ever pluck up the courage to send these questions to him, I’ll let you know 😉

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  2. Pure genius! In his answer there is a deep culture, he is telling the story about his life as Perseo, speaking about moralism. He use words of Jesus, joking with banalities and with the common decency! GREAT! Pure art!

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  3. Yes he is telling probably something of his life, but in an “original” way! He seems to be the most innovative Nose in the perfumery show, and he is The Show! I don’t know, Melita! This is a WORK of art!

    Liked by 1 person

  4. Here we are faced with a pure artist playing with the system! Angelo Orazio Pregoni creates paradoxes to make paradoxical every mechanism of marketing in niche perfumery! Responding in this manner, he produces a circuit of elegance and intellectual culture. Huge! STOP with flowers, essences, pyramids, nostalgia, vertical sensitivity; we needs real artists! Bravo.

    Liked by 1 person

  5. Perseus’s name should properly mean ‘The Destroyer’; and he represented the patriarchal Hellenes who invaded Greece and Asia Minor early in the second millennium BC.

    “The legend of Perseus beheading Medusa means, specifically, that ‘the Hellenes overran the goddess’s chief shrines’ and ‘stripped her priestesses of their Gorgon masks,’ the latter being apotropaic faces worn to frighten away the profane.

    That is to say, there occurred in the early thirteenth century B.C. an actual historic rupture, a sort of sociological trauma, which has been registered in this myth, much as what Freud terms the latent content of a neurosis is registered in the manifest content of a dream: registered yet hidden, registered in the unconscious yet unknown or misconstrued by the conscious mind” (Campbell, Joseph (1968). The Masks of God)

    As you know, Pregoni has founded “WET DREAM”, it is a pure creative imagination really different from a CLASSIC way.

    Liked by 1 person

  6. Pingback: Thirteen Thoughts: Perfumer Interview Series – Paul Kiler of PK Perfumes | Perfume Polytechnic

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  9. Pingback: RE_VELACIÓN: To Reveal or to Re-veil. What will you choose? A new artistic performance by Angelo Orazio Pregoni | Perfume Polytechnic

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